With the launch of the collection jersey, i couldn’t not address the sinews of war when sewing this type of bosses: jersey!
Indeed, it is always good to remember that to get a good result, it is crucial to respect the percentage of elasticity, advised by the boss! For the sweat shower and mist skirt, the recommended minimum elasticity is 30% but you will get a perfect result around 40% of elasticity.
If you buy your fabric online, some shops indicate the percentage of elasticity of their stretch fabrics. If this isn’t the case, that sellers do not know to tell you or you buy your fabric in the shop, we have to order a sample and calculate it yourself!
Step 1: Cut out a square of 10cm x 10cm in your jersey and lay it flat next to a rule, in the sense of line.
Step 2: Hold firmly the left side of the sample on its height.
Step 3: With the other hand, stretch your sample up on its height. Raise its final length that will allow you to calculate elasticity.
Here, we chose two samples of cotton jersey: a jersey 100% cotton of 140 g/m² and a jersey cotton-spandex 231 g/m². We will apply the magic formula:
Elasticity percentage = (length stretched – initial length) / initial length
Cotton jersey stretched to a length of 13cm. His percentage of elasticity is thus 13-10/10 = 0.3 is 30%. The Cotton-spandex jersey is, him, stretched to a length of 14.5 cm. Its elasticity percentage is 45%.
Even easier if you use samples of 10 cm, you can make the calculation of head: If the sample stretches of 3 cm, its percentage of elasticity is thus 3 × 10 = 30%!
Resistance To Deformation
But the elasticity is not the only criterion of choice of vintage cycling jerseys! Indeed, some models like the mist skirt require the use of Jersey having good resistance to deformation, i.e. who return to their shape once stretched. These jerseys very often contain elastane or lycra, and avoid the garment is deformed when worn.
It’s easy to judge the resistance to deformation of a jersey. Take our two samples of earlier, and stretch them thoroughly. We can see that cotton jersey (top) has a low resistance to deformation: it remains partially stretched, deformed, and won’t find its initial state after washing. Jersey cotton-spandex on the bottom however has very good resistance to deformation: he almost took its shape and its initial dimensions.
Weight, Thickness And Transparency
Finally, significant criteria to be taken into account in the choice of your jersey are weight, thickness and transparency. These criteria must adapt to your project for a good result: we prefer often a light, thin and translucent jersey for a summer t-shirt and a thick, dense and opaque mesh for a winter skirt. The present indications of weight on online shops can help you, but even if you do not know the product, better ask for a sample.
Let’s take our two samples. Our two jerseys are of the same thickness but different weights: Cotton-spandex jersey tested (right) is therefore more dense than the jersey cotton (left). We can also see that our cotton jersey is transparent enough, while our cotton-spandex is completely opaque.
Using the information
Using the information that we have collected on our two samples:
-Our cotton jersey is light (140 g/m²), moderately elastic (30%) with little resistance to deformation. It is also a little transparent. It is composed of natural fibres, so breathing. It will be perfect for the realization of a loose t-shirt, and can be used for sewing a Sweatshirt shower of half season (beware of deformations to the belt and bracelets of sleeves, it can be good to achieve a firmer Jersey).
-Our cotton-spandex jersey is heavier (231 g/m²), quite elastic (45%) with a good resistance to deformation. It is dense and completely opaque. It will be perfect for the realization of dresses and leggings, and the mist skirt short version.
If in doubt, feel free to use your common sense, and to observe trade clothing fabrics: in what jersey is made this top, skirt, this t-shirt? Take them with you when shopping tissue, it will be easier to compare the weight, the fallen, the texture…
Finally, remember that like all know-how, control of the jersey is something that comes with experience: so feel free to you train through the t-shirt plantain downloadable free!
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